How to make stitch variants
Several different ways
There are dozens of different nalbinding stitches and variants. Depending on the stitch type, gauge/tension, and yarn, the structure of the finished item may vary a lot: thin - thick - dense - lacy.
If you already know one nalbinding stitch, you can alter the sitch either by increasing or decreasing the number of thumb loops, and/or the number of loops you pick up behind the thumb, and/or the connection stitch.
An incomplete list of different nalbinding stitches (link).
- Pick up one (or more) loops behind the thumb before picking up the thumb loop (Åsle Stitch)
- You usually pick up behind the thumb first the loop on the right, then the middle one, and possibly next one(s) on the left. Direction of the needle from right to left.
- In Åsle Stitch, however, you pick up behind the thumb first the loop on the left (or middle one + the one on the left; for a thicker version of Åsle). Direction of the needle from right to left. The loop far on the right is not picked up.
- Pick up the loop(s) behind the thumb from back to front, and turn the needle tip either to left (Russian Stitch Family), or to right (Finnish Turning Stitch).
The end phase of the stitch
Usually, at the very end of the stitch, you insert the needle both under the thumb loop(s) and under the needle yarn (working yarn) which runs from your thumb to your needle.
- Under the thumb loop(s), but over the needle yarn *)
- Over the thumb loop(s), but under the needle yarn **)
*) so called "plaited edge"; Parikkala style stitches, Rådmansö Stitch, etc
**) Alsike Stitch, Stutby Stitch
Usually the new stitch is connected to the edge of the previous row into one edge loop (F1; F = Front), or into one 'new' egde loop + one 'old' edge loop (F2).
Comparison of different connection stitches, and how the affect the surface
Finnish Stitch 2+2 (link)
Russian Stitch 2+2+2 (link)